NISOS Ionian Yacht Charter Journal - 22 to 29 May 2005

Kioni picture postcard perfect. Hot showers available in listed Victorian building with Dickensian atmosphere. Lazy sleep helped to reset the body clocks before excellent tuna supper on the quay.

No winds at outset, so motored to Cliff Bay on Atoko Island. Just approaching the bay when Dave hooked a big Tuna on his line. We landed the fish, though Amanda came over all blonde as it came on board. Jane smacked it on the head with the adjustable spanner. Suddenly the barbeque was looking more attractive.

A quick dip, though the water was coldish this early in the year. Met some Greek fishermen who’d been catching crayfish, but we didn’t have enough Greek to ask to buy some for the barbeque.

Out of Cliff Bay we found the wind. Gusting up to 27 mph by our instruments. All four of us in waterproofs in a line on the top side – well done Thalia for having plenty of room in the cockpit. Two reefs in, doing over 8 knots, spray hitting us in bucket loads, all in glorious sunshine … fantastic.

Into Port Leone Bay – a few yachts along main beach so headed for small one. Laid out anchor and I took a long line ashore: we’d be relying on my bowline and sheet bends!

Dave took Thalia out to reposition while I found out everything I ever wanted to know about handling an outboard – ie. don’t! Dumped the line in the bottom where it tangled with feet and oars, and draped over side, where it caused the dinghy to spin in circles.

Circled clockwise, went aground, pushed off, lost flip flop, retrieved flip flop, circled counter-clockwise, went aground, pushed off, drifted to port, hooked underwater rock, went back, circled again, went aground, caught rope in engine, tried oars, circled some more, lost oar, retrieved oar, drifted to starboard, went aground, pushed off … finally got close enough for Jane to say ‘shall we throw a rope?’. Dave’s response was ‘how about something heavier – like a brick!’.

Not my moment of glory, but definitely felt like I’d earned a beer by the end of it.

Took provisions ashore and lit a driftwood fire and the disposable barbeque. Sliced and cooked the fish and made salad. Ate delicious meal, alone in the world, as the setting sun painted the sky pink behind Thalia.

Wind had gone, so got the Autohelm out of his box and named him George (after the Autopilot in ‘Airplane’). He steered us across to Cephalonia while we kept a lazy ferry-watch.

Pulled into Ormos Foki just past Fiskardo for a late lunch and swim. We’d used up all the fresh water on board, so used biodegradable sea soap to scrub up a bit.

Amanda produced a gorgeous plate of feta cheese, tomatoes, anchovies and sprinkled oregano from the soggy items lurking at the bottom of our fridge.

Fiskardo already full at 4 pm, so anchored off. Dave set off with outboard this time, but sheet bend slipped and I had to take Thalia out and back to line up (never in the right spot at the right time) while Dave messed about in boats – a good man goaded to madness!

Found a bar for the match. Took our LFC flag. Game went to 3-nil down at half time, everyone glum. Then miracle happened with 3-all at full time. Won on penalties and the bar erupted. Standing on the seats and yelling and whistling – and that was just me!

We all fancied a gentle day, little wind, so motored down the Cephalonia coast. Saw dolphins. Lunched in Ormos Sophia bay. Lazy sleep.

Sailed off anchor and goosewinged down Ithaka channel. Came into Agios Euphemia. Excellent showers, a good meal and an early night.

Had the line out for fish. No show. Then wind picked up, got sails out, close-hauled, made tea, and at moment likely to cause most confusion, landed another fish.

Pulled up for very late lunch after 4 hour crossing in an anchorage off the top of Kastos island. No time to cook fish as could see a storm building over the mainland. Packed up fast and out-ran it into Kalamos harbour.

I did a decent stern-to mooring (finally), but anchor chain jumped off windlass and jammed 6ft short of quay. Moored up anyway with permission to cross neighbouring boat, as storm hit just as final ropes tightened. Thunder, lightning and torrential rain. Huddled in cabin for beers then a short sleep.
Storm cleared around 7pm just in time for us to get to George’s restaurant for the best fish soup and Kleftiko in the Ionian.

Our final night out in the islands, sadness starting to set in. So took beers back to Thalia and played rowdy children’s card games with a pack found on board.

Ate the fish at our lunch stop in Abelike bay. Last swim. Then another storm broke, so sheltered in cabin and rode it out.

Laurie phoned with mooring directions, and was there on the quay at Nidri. Moored up. Very sad to have reached the end of the week.

Already planning the next trip.

Sara Rowan Murray
June 2005